“Twiggy, I want something for my parents.” Done! Michael’s favorite
Gruyére was in the package along with a runny Saint Marcellin, a tiny
chèvre just for me, a round of fourme d’Ambert and a plaquette of
butter speckled with grains of fleur de sel. It was perfect.
We all want to know our farmers, but it’s pretty great to know our
cheesemongers, too. ■
It’s hard to decide what’s best about this cookie. The texture’s
a definite attention-grabber: It has a slight flakiness at first and
then it’s all melt. The flavors of the rosemary and Parmesan,
one of those meant-to-be matches, are front and center. For
the crumbliest texture — a good thing here — the cheese
should not be very finely grated. A word on the nuts: When I
began making these, I used toasted almonds, and the cookies
were very, very good. If almonds are what you’ve got, use
them. You won’t be disappointed.
Makes about 60 cookies
45 ml ( 3 tablespoons) sugar
30 ml ( 2 tablespoons) finely chopped fresh rosemary
272 grams ( 2 cups) all-purpose flour
60 grams (1/2 cup) toasted pecans
30 grams (1/3 cup) lightly packed grated Parmesan
2. 5 ml (1/2 teaspoon) fine sea salt
226 grams ( 2 sticks; 8 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into
1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten
1. Working in a small bowl, rub the sugar and rosemary
together until the sugar is moist and aromatic.
2. Put the flour, pecans, Parmesan, salt and rosemary-sugar
in a food processor and pulse to blend. Drop in butter and
pulse until the mixture turns crumbly. Add beaten yolk a little
at a time, pulsing until you have a moist dough.
3. Divide dough in half. Pat each half into a disk. One disk at
a time, place between two pieces of parchment paper and
roll to a thickness of . 6 cm (1/4 inch). Slide the dough, still
between the papers, onto a baking sheet — you can stack
the slabs — and freeze for at least 1 hour.
4. Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 177°C (350°F).
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone
baking mat. Have a 4 cm (1 1/2-inch) diameter cookie
cutter at hand.
5. Working with one piece of dough at a time, peel away the
top and bottom papers and return it to one piece of paper.
Cut cookies and put them on the lined sheet, leaving about
2. 5 cm (1 inch) between them. Gather the scraps, re-roll,
freeze, cut and bake.
6. Bake the cookies for about 15 minutes, rotating the baking
sheet at the midway mark, or until they’re golden and set.
Rest them on the baking sheet for 3 minutes, then transfer
to a rack to cool. Repeat with the remaining dough, always
starting with a cool baking sheet. The rolled-out dough
can be wrapped well and frozen for up to 2 months; cut
and bake directly from the freezer. The baked cookies can
be kept in a covered container for up to 1 week at room
Recipes adapted from Dorie’s Cookies by Dorie Greenspan, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2016.